Written by Chris Lancia
Clarksville, TN – May in Tennessee doesn’t ask permission. It simply arrives, warm enough for a drive with the windows down, unhurried enough to make you wonder why you haven’t been going to more places.
The question becomes not whether to go, but where.
We headed south out of Clarksville and 90 minutes later discovered Columbia, a charming town on a route most people take to somewhere else.
We learned all we needed to know simply by entering the town square. Anchored by the Maury County Courthouse, it’s ringed by storefronts that bear the unmistakable look of places tended to by people who care about their downtown charm.
There’s no better place to start than Muletown Coffee Roasters. They roast their own beans, carry that small-town ease that takes years to cultivate, and are staffed by a team that makes you feel like a regular the moment you walk in.
The name is a tribute to Columbia’s history as a mule trading center and is a sign of a town that knows its story well enough to wear it proudly. We ordered coffee and a piece of banana bread that had no business being as good as it was, sat by the window, and watched the square come alive right in front of us.
Caffeinated and ready to wander, we stepped a few doors down into Duck River Books. It’s a place that immediately makes you slow down.
This is the epitome of an independent bookstore. A light musical track plays in the background. A children’s corner glows with twinkling lights that make even adults want to sit down and stay awhile. The selection is built through careful curation fed by community input, not an algorithm.
“We have over 40 categories and are what we call a general-purpose bookstore,” said James Lund, who opened the bookstore in 2012. “We’ve got new and used books, and we always have a little bit of whatever category you’re looking for.”
One of the features is a spiral staircase that leads to an upper book loft. Over the years, that staircase has been the backdrop for dozens of prom and high school senior photos. And at least three marriage proposals.
“It’s great to be a part of people’s memories,” said Lund. “And I was just thinking about this: the 2026 senior class are the same kids who started kindergarten the year we opened. We’ve been able to be here for them their entire time in school, and I just think that’s pretty cool.”
Those kind of roots are what make Columbia worth the drive.
“There are a lot of businesses down here that have been open 10 years or more,” Lund added. “And that’s very unusual. We just have a great mixture of different things to come do.”
With a bag of books in hand, we wandered to Ye Peddler Gift Shoppe.
Entering the store in April means immediate immersion into Easter and bunnies. But venture deeper and the store reveals itself room by room. A kitchen room, a candle room, each one seasonally designed so that regulars can return every few months to see what’s changed.
Owner Rachel Hughes is clear about what a shop like this means to a community.
“I’ve always loved small-town gift shops, and when I travel, I still go to every one I can find,” said Hughes. “It’s great for the community. It’s where people meet to talk, catch up, and share joy.”
There’s something remarkable about a place where 3 generations of a family share memories through their wedding registries. Where a young woman buys invitations for her high school graduation and returns years later to register for her wedding.
“Our motto is always be the delight in someone’s day, whether they buy something or not,” Hughes said. “We want them to leave here filled with joy and excited. People move off and always visit when they come back, and it’s so much fun to be a part of their lives like that.”
We left feeling like we’d been handed something special, and slowly made our way back to the square for lunch.
With nearly a dozen options surrounding the square, we chose Southern Tre Steakhouse and started with beer cheese and pretzels before devouring a main course of bourbon sriracha chicken and waffles and a chopped brisket sandwich.
Then, in that slow-moving, well-fed late afternoon way, we followed the path down to the Columbia Greenway along the Duck River. The water moved slowly, and the noise of the square felt pleasantly far away. It was the right way to end the day. Not with a destination, but with a breath.
We got back in the car as the sun was getting low and pointed north toward home. The windows stayed down the whole way. Columbia has that effect on you. It’s the kind of place that doesn’t ask you to stay forever, just long enough to remember what you were looking for in the first place.
